Snapshot Restaurant Review: Gary Danko

Lou took me to Gary Danko last night to celebrate my 35th birthday. It was a fantastic meal, from start to finish. Impeccable service. Flawless food. What a great birthday treat! Lou had eaten there several times before, but I was a virgin. Sorry, no other pictures; we forgot our camera.

We started the meal with a bottle of 1998 Dom Perignon and decided to share the evening's chef's tasting menu, which featured Villa Mille Rose Olive Oil as a theme in many of the dishes, and another tasting that we assembled ourselves from the select-your-own-courses part of the menu. I won't describe every course, but I want to mention a few of the stand out dishes.

First up, Nettle Soup with Burgundy Escargots and Maitake Mushrooms. The nettles were pureed with spinach and mixed with cream. The server poured the soup into a bowl in which the escargots and mushrooms were arranged in a small, tight cylinder. All together, the soup tasted like a pesto, with the nettles and spinach evoking the basil and the escargots and mushrooms providing hints of nuttiness. Small strips of meyer lemon zest added an unexpected zing to each bite, and the tendermess of the snails contrasted nicely with the silkiness of the soup. It may have been the best dish of the night; it was certainly a delicious starter.

Next, Roast Maine Lobster with Morel Mushrooms, Asparagus and Tarragon. The lobster tail was arranged in its shell and covered with a buttery sauce made up of morels, asparagus and whole sprigs of tarragon. I love lobster, asparagus, morels and tarragon, so this was a perfect combination of ingredients for me.

Other stand outs: Striped Bass with Cannellini Beans, Broccoli Rabe and Bagna Cauda, Seared Squab Breast and Stuffed Leg with Olive Oil Risotto, Rhubard Confit and Spring Onion, and Lemon Herb Duck Breast with Duck Hash and Rhubarb Compote.

We also sampled some wonderful cheeses. I know Brillat Savarin, a gruyere and several others were among them, but I can't remember the names due my tipsy state when the cheese course began. Not only did we finish off the bottle of champagne, but we also drank a half bottle of Armand Rousseau, Gevrey-Chambertin 2001 (an amazingly smooth and well-balanced red Burgundy).

For dessert, we shared a Honey Mousse with Olive Oil Sponge Cake, Pistachio Cream and Lemon Gelee and a Baked Chocolate Souffle with Two Sauces (chocolate and Creme Anglaise). Lou loved the souffle and I loved the honey mousse and olive oil sponge cake, so dessert worked out well for us. We ordered glasses of a Tokaji Aszú, Kiralyudvar, Cuvée Ilona, 5 Puttonyos, Hungary 2001 to pair with the mousse and cake and a Banyuls, Jacques Laverriere, Clos Chatart, Vin Doux Naturel, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 1998 for the souffle. They also brought me a lemon mousse cake with a single tall candle on it for my birthday. Yes, three desserts! A great finish.

Gary Danko at last! Thank you, Lou, for a stunning birthday meal.